A soft yawn, the scent of coffee drifting from the kitchen, and my eyes opening slowly to a new day — the year begins gently. No fireworks or glitter, just a quiet, reflective, contented start. The new year arrives with sunny days and a refreshed look for Juls’ Kitchen, redesigned once again by Kia’s talented hands in her little haute couture workshop. It’s a brighter, more practical dress for the blog — perhaps not the final version, but a true reflection of me: this is 2011 Giulia, and it feels like an important achievement.
I debated which recipe should introduce the new year and the new blog design, and finally chose the dish that starred at both my Christmas lunch and New Year’s Eve dinner: cappelletti, the fresh, meat-filled pasta typical of Emilia Romagna. Years ago I tasted the authentic Caplèt (the local name for cappelletti) at my friend Valli’s home, and ever since I’ve wanted to make them again. In our daily emails Valli would recount her heroic hours folding (and consuming) countless cappelletti, the irresistible aroma that followed her from home to the office, and festive meals dedicated to these little parcels. I couldn’t wait any longer — I needed the recipe.
And so we made cappelletti. The recipe Valeria sent is for four people, and it’s a family tradition from the Grasselli family of Monticelli, Quattro Castella, Reggio Emilia. Knowing Valeria, who once sent a ravioli recipe for four that fed my family for a week, I still prepared it as written — and served it to twelve people at Christmas. The result was a guaranteed success. Even on my first attempt the cappelletti impressed everyone with their simple preparation and delicate, authentic flavor.
Ingredients for the cappelletti filling:
- 50 g butter
- 1 heaping tablespoon lard (or butter if lard is unavailable)
- 1/2 white onion, finely chopped
- 1 clove garlic
- Mixed minced meat — 300 g total (equal portions ground beef, ground pork, sausage and mortadella)
- 2 cloves
- Some rosemary leaves
- Salt, to taste (moderate)
- 200 g breadcrumbs
- 200 g grated Parmesan cheese
- 1 large egg
Begin by melting the butter and lard in a large pan over medium heat. Sauté the finely chopped onion and the garlic clove until the onion is lightly browned. Add the mixed minced meat, rosemary and cloves, and season with a little salt — remember the grated Parmesan will later enhance the saltiness, so start modestly. Cook until the meat is fully done, about 15 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in the breadcrumbs; they will absorb the meat’s juices. Remove the cloves, garlic and rosemary sprigs, and let the mixture cool completely. Once cold, fold in the grated Parmesan and the egg to bind the filling.
Ingredients for the fresh pasta:
- 250 g plain flour
- 250 g semolina flour
- 1 pinch salt
- 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
- 4 medium eggs
- Cold water, as needed
Sift both flours together on a wooden board and make a well in the center. Whisk the eggs with a pinch of salt and pour them into the well, then add the olive oil. Mix with a fork and gradually incorporate the flour, then knead by hand, adding cold water little by little until the dough becomes soft, elastic and no longer sticky. Let the dough rest at room temperature for about 30 minutes.
Roll the dough either with a rolling pin or a pasta machine until you achieve paper-thin sheets. Cut the sheets into horizontal strips and then into squares about 3–4 cm wide. Place a small pinch of filling in the center of each square, fold to form a triangle and seal the edges. Then bring the two base corners together, overlap and press to close, forming the characteristic cappelletti shape.
Tips for perfect cappelletti. Use very fresh, thin pasta sheets. Work with two or three strips at a time: roll, cut, fill and shape, then roll more dough. Make small filling portions, about the size of a walnut. If the filling crumbles, moisten your fingers with water to compact it before forming the pasta.
How to cook cappelletti. Traditionally they are served in a clear broth with a generous dusting of grated Parmesan. They only need a few minutes in simmering broth to cook through and become a steaming, flavorful dish. If you prefer a non-traditional variation, they’re also excellent tossed with cream, diced cooked ham and lots of Parmesan for a rich, creamy plate.
How to store them. Arrange freshly shaped cappelletti on a tray dusted with semolina flour so they don’t stick. For larger batches, freeze them individually on a tray until firm, then transfer to a plastic bag. Cook them directly from frozen in boiling broth for a few extra minutes, and serve immediately.
